Pritchard, Mrs. Eric. The Cult of Chiffon. Grant Richards. London. 1902. Octavo. 212 pps. Front and back endpages and six total unnumbered pages with adverts for furs, hats, and corsets. Illustrations by Rose Le Quesne. The book once had fabric closures that are now only partially attached, pages are heavy glossy stock, boards are a faux vellum, missing at spine, but cloth intact and binding firm.

Marian Pritchard was a tour de force fashion journalist, known for an outspoken point of view on the feminine and erotic potential of fashion. She wrote for The Lady, and as the fashion editor of Lady’s Realm. The Cult of Chiffon advises the reader on what is seen “and unseen” in fashion, as well as the importance of beautiful undergarments, colour, proportion, on obtaining a chic quality, on hats sublime and ridiculous, dressing for occasions, furs, footwear, jewelry, fashion revivals, and the “mysteries of the toilet.” 

There is a chapter on the cost of fashion and Pritchard’s frustration that “it is rammed down our throats that the duty of woman is to economise. But that in the matter of dress women are rebels.” She suggests a budget of £200 a year will afford a woman part of her year in the city and part in the country.

Pritchard’s new 20th century woman as described in The Cult of Chiffon is one who uses her intelligence to express herself, but not to be “smart.” She preferred her women to use their intelligence to arouse and express their femininity. And also, to have at least one great black dress. A heavy tome and holy grail of fashion in good condition.